Build

About building the camper

Subframe design

Martijn

Unimogs have a very flexible chassis, excellent when driving in heavy terrain and it’s one of the reasons these vehicles are so good at it.

Flexible Unimog chassis

But of course, the living area, the cabin, shouldn’t twist as the chassis does, it will destroy the cabin. This requires a so-called ‘subframe’. The idea is that this will connect the cabin to the chassis without relaying the chassis movement to the cabin.

4-point attachment system

We’ll connect the subframe via a 4-point attachment system to the chassis, in a diamond shape. The front and rear connection are left/right flexible due to a pivot point, while the middle connections are forward flexible due to a rubber bushing.

First subframe design, cabin should go on top of this

Martijn drew (part of) the Unimog chassis and designed a subframe. the idea was that the cabin would be mounted on top of this frame.

Later, we we heard the frame could be integrated in the floor, so the cabin would be slightly lower. And as it should be mounted as low as possible, we decided to do so.

After having all the parts laser-cut, it’s time to assemble!

  • Design #2
  • Middle attachment
  • This should be it
  • Laser-cut parts
  • For attachment points
  • Just like lego!

New dash

Martijn

While the existing dash has extra space for buttons and indicators, and even has a 12 volt socket, the buttons are a weird shape and cannot be found in local shops or with the correct symbols. Time to design a new dash.

The old dash, at the right is the space for the glove compartment

It’s a long search for new buttons and indicators, we need a wide range of symbols. When found, it’s time for the design. Besides the speedometer and so on, only one thing is being re-used: the ignition switch.

New dash design

The rectangular spaces will have frames for 3 buttons each. At the top right, there’s room for a dual USB-charger. De small circles at the top will hold indicators.

The dash itself is being laser-cut in somewhat thicker steel than the original. The round holes for speedometer have a flange, which we cannot simply reproduce, so we’ll just weld something in place. We’ll use black vinyl as the cover later on.

  • Laser cut, with flanges at the sides
  • Thin metal circle flange welded on
  • This should work!

Moving the master brake cylinder

Martijn

The master brake cylinder and reservoirs will be moved forward and slightly down to make room for the camber body and more space with the rear fender.

Brake lines marked, taken piece of the old support, put together a new support and ‘rewired’ the brake lines. Done!

  • Master cylinder in old spot
  • New bracket, to the left and down
  • Exotic brake line tools
  • It’s new spot!

New exhaust

Martijn

Because we moved the fueltank from the right side to the left, because of the living cabin entrance, the original exhaust had to be removed. We decided to purchase a stainless steel replacement.

New stainless steel exhaust

We got it from a company in Germany, no more rusty pipes! It does take some fiddling around with the pipes, but after a while, the new exhaust and muffler are installed on the left side, just under the cab. There’s even space left to get a larger fuel tank if required.

Look at it shine!

PTO? Removed!

Martijn

Our ex-firefighting truck had a waterpump via a power take-off (PTO): when the engine is running, you engage the PTO so it revolves and you can attach all sorts of machinery to it. This works even when the truck itself is in the neutral gear.

We don’t need a PTO for the camper and the extra piece with the round flange will be removed as well. We’re keeping the actual PTO-drive, but we need a cover for it. Mercedes probable sells those, but it was a small effort to design it ourselves and have it laser-cut in steel.

Cause the inner piece portrudes a bit, there’s an extra ring. A bit of welding puts the cover and the ring together. After painting, Iris can attach it to the gear box. All done!

  • 1. PTO to gearbox
  • 2. PTO removed
  • 3. Naked PTO in gearbox
  • 4. Designed and laser-cut
  • 5. A bit of welding
  • 6. Iris attaches the cover

First paint-job

Martijn

After repairing the rear chassis crossmember and the step, it’s time to put some new paint on these as well as the fenders, winch and bumper. The old black and very rough white paint is removed by sandblasting the parts and there’s a new coat of black paint. Looks good, doesn’t it?

It will take (quite) some time before we’ll re-attach these parts, but yeah, moving forward is nice.

  • 1. Fixing the step
  • 2. Ready for a paint job
  • 3. Grill painted
  • 4. Winch sandblasted and painted
  • 5. These fenders look great!
  • 6. Bumper and other parts

Less is more

Martijn

Our U1550 is an old French firefighter-truck. It includes a huge watertank, hose-reels and a PTO-driven pump. And ofcourse all the required parts to control all this. We’re taking it all off, that’s an easy job.

  • 1. Pump and hose reels
  • 2. The watertank in lift off!
  • 3. Flashlights, pump-control, all removed
  • 4. PTO and gearbox
  • 5. One empty truck

There’s some storage, hose reels, the PTO-drive pump and lots of wiring for flasher lights and pump control: we’re removing it all.

By removing the tank and pump, the structure for the wheelcovers and rear lights is removed as well. We’ve got to create something new for those.

Once all the fire-fighting stuff is removed, we get a clear view of the Unimog itself. Ideas start flowing!